Saturn at the park

[Modding_out]

Hi, my name is Elliot. I was running the red sc2 in STM for solo in the park. Most of you saw me scate around the track. This is only my second autocross and my first on that car. I assembled it last month, the 600 mile trip from nj-tn was my shakedown, I hand only mild temp problems.
I'm looked for tips for driving, in setting up my car better and driver mods

I had bad bad Under steer and when I stepped on the gas I just lit up the Inside tire

[jcford80]

Go to this
http://www.motorsportreg.com/events/etr ... see-269109

Well worth your $$. Fix the driver before you touch the car. There might also be a different class you can run in that has a PAX(handicap) multiplier. What all is done to the car?

[CobaltSSlow]

Hi, my name is Elliot. I was running the red sc2 in STM for solo in the park. Most of you saw me scate around the track. This is only my second autocross and my first on that car. I assembled it last month, the 600 mile trip from nj-tn was my shakedown, I hand only mild temp problems.
I'm looked for tips for driving, in setting up my car better and driver mods

I had bad bad Under steer and when I stepped on the gas I just lit up the Inside tire

I was going to get to ya to give me a ride along so I could see the course / see if I could give ya a few pointers but I got distracted by philly cheese steaks, lol.

Watching your runs you improved substantially by your last go - carrying a lot more speed and getting much closer to the cones in the slalom. I'm with Justin - work on yourself before you mess with the car too much. Tires are the main thing I would look at first for the maximum bang:buck ratio. Always be sure the steering wheel is straight (or close) before you roll on the power to avoid overpowering an unloaded wheel.

Post your mods and we can probably get you in a more favorable class and that will also help us recommend things to make the car more neutral.

[Modding_out]

I'm mainly looking for a driver mod, I will deff look at the school day though I do not know if I can make the trip down
Haha well that's good to know I had some improvement at least

My mods Are a fresh blue printed motor
-10.5:1 compression
-Ported and port matched
-long tube race header
-light 5 weight crank
-10lb flywheel
-stage 1 clutch
-short ram Intake
-larger throttle body

-Rebuilt trans and welded diff
-short shifter
-Stock suspension with 2" drop springs 40lbs firmer than stock

[John Brown]

I'm mainly looking for a driver mod, I will deff look at the link

My mods Are a fresh blue printed motor
-10.5:1 compression
-Ported and port matched
-long tube race header
-light 5weight crank
-10lb flywheel
-stage 1 clutch
-short ram Intake
-larger throttle body

-Rebuilt trans and welded diff
-short shifter
-Stock suspension with 2" drop springs 40lbs firmer than stock

think we found the problem..... the weld is broken...

[CobaltSSlow]

Is that a 2.2 ecotec? (Me and Justin both drive ecotec powered cars) interesting build and interesting choice on welding the diff, Phil (from chatt) and I were discussing welded diff's in fwd cars and apparently they can work well. (Edit: on a road course, not ax - forgot that key part)

Tires will probably help more than anything, after that a rear swaybar (probably the biggest one you can find) will help move grip forward - disconnecting your front sway bar can have a similarish effect on most cars, not sure about a sc2. I'd definitely attend the school if your serious as that will teach you a lot. As for class you may have to run where you were. Not sure though?

What tires do you have now?

[John Brown]

if its welded..how is it "lighting up" the inside wheel on exit power?

I can assure you a welded diff in a front driver in A-X is not a good thing. Road racing..its a cheap alternative to "OK"

I did this years ago and it worked on track somewhat.. never at an A-X course.

[dewittpayne]

Modding_out,

How do you light up the inside tire with a welded diff? Are you sure you don't have a broken axle or something? Jack up one driven wheel. With the brakes off and the transmission in neutral, you should not be able to rotate the wheel very far. It will stop when the spider gears hit the weld. Then check the other side. Be sure the wheels on the ground are chocked and that there is a jack stand to support the car as well as the jack.

As I remember, a welded diff on a RWD car will make it push badly on corner entry. I suspect it's the same and maybe worse for FWD. You pretty much have to pitch the car to get it to turn in. I agree with JB, it's not a good idea.

[Buck05Sti]

If you're interested in more go fast bits, i've got an SDA street port IM and a SDA Phenolic manifold spacer, among a couple other parts. i once had big dreams for my 98 sc2...

[steverife]

I want to drive it, just to see what the diff is like...

[Modding_out]

Haha welded diff PINnot the gears. Honestly my pin isn't welded that's just what the mod is called, I slapped it on my milling machine and replaced the 1/8" wimpy roll pin with two 3/16 hardened dowel pins Welds can fail and you'll be visited by the diff pin fairy

My motor isn't an ecotech actually it's all saturn ( 1.9Liter LL0 ) no gm parts bin

There is a small after market, out there still but the problem is saturn owners are not like honda owners we are a cheap bunch and a lot of companies dropped products or went under
I can use a sohc front bar as it's smaller . Used aftermarket rear bars are in hot demand right now and hard to get . Tires and wider offset wheels are my priority mod right now , they are worn out kumho esca asx's

[John Brown]

I want to drive it, just to see what the diff is like...

its like... broken.

[Buck05Sti]

with the motor being built to the extent it is, you're probably in a prepared class

[Modding_out]

Hmm I just might me interested in those sda parts. Can U pm me?

[CobaltSSlow]

Does OBX make a diff?