Trailer question

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Challenger
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Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2015 8:32 am

Trailer question

Post by Challenger »

I'm looking at getting a trailer to haul the car since we'll be doing a little more traveling this year. Been looking for an open 20' wood deck with dovetail. I've found them both with 4" C channel and 5" C channel frames. Both have same GVWR of 7,000 based on the axles. Question I have is it worth the extra $300-$400 for a 5" frame? Obviously it will be stronger and handle more weight but will also weigh more and therefore have less margin to haul. Is the extra strength really necessary when it would be limited by the axles/tires? I've also come across a 2"x4" tube frame for about the same price as the 5" channel. Thoughts?

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Steve Vrooman
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jcox07
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Re: Trailer question

Post by jcox07 »

I would go with the 5 inch channel, it never hurts to have that extra little bit of comfort knowing that if you hit a big hole that the trailer won't bend.
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John Brown
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Re: Trailer question

Post by John Brown »

jcox07 wrote:I would go with the 5 inch channel, it never hurts to have that extra little bit of comfort knowing that if you hit a big hole (DRIVE ANYWHERE IN NORTH AMERICA) that the trailer won't bend.
cleared that up..... :lol:
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jcox07
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Re: Trailer question

Post by jcox07 »

Yep, especially in OHIO!!!!!
JY ( Jeff ) Cox
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Challenger
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Re: RE: Re: Trailer question

Post by Challenger »

jcox07 wrote:I would go with the 5 inch channel, it never hurts to have that extra little bit of comfort knowing that if you hit a big hole that the trailer won't bend.
[emoji106]

I know that feeling all too well....have blown out a couple tires on the camper because of hitting them.

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Steve Vrooman
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jcoatney
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Re: Trailer question

Post by jcoatney »

Blueprints call for 4 inch channel on 7k GVWR and 5 inch on 10k. Can't hurt to have 5 inch but I wouldn't want haul the extra weight around. Tubing rusts from the inside out so you don't know you have a problem until it's too late. Most new trailers are built pretty poorly so you should check it out in person before you buy. They might cost a little more to buy locally but it would be worth the piece of mind to me. Make sure it's painted underneath. Most aren't.
Jon Coatney
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Challenger
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Re: RE: Re: Trailer question

Post by Challenger »

jcoatney wrote:Blueprints call for 4 inch channel on 7k GVWR and 5 inch on 10k. Can't hurt to have 5 inch but I wouldn't want haul the extra weight around. Tubing rusts from the inside out so you don't know you have a problem until it's too late. Most new trailers are built pretty poorly so you should check it out in person before you buy. They might cost a little more to buy locally but it would be worth the piece of mind to me. Make sure it's painted underneath. Most aren't.
Thanks Jonathan! Anything in particular to look for in build quality other than painted underneath?

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Steve Vrooman
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flier129
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Re: Trailer question

Post by flier129 »

I've been trailer hunting the past little while as well. I'm considering something like this: http://knoxville.craigslist.org/for/5962719348.html

I'd double check on it being painted underneath from Coatney's advice and I'd finish the wood with something once I got it as well.
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TedV
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Re: Trailer question

Post by TedV »

My first thought " 5" channel, what the heck you hauling?? A TANK????" Then I remembered what car you drive. :oops: I think just the weight of your car would bend my trailer before it even saw the first mile of pot holes. :lol:

I'll just go back to spectating this thread.. :mrgreen:
Ted V.
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Challenger
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Re: RE: Re: Trailer question

Post by Challenger »

flier129 wrote:I've been trailer hunting the past little while as well. I'm considering something like this: http://knoxville.craigslist.org/for/5962719348.html

I'd double check on it being painted underneath from Coatney's advice and I'd finish the wood with something once I got it as well.
Yea that's one of the places I've been looking at too. But I haven't been able to get them to answer the phone or respond to an email so I'm a little leary now.

I've also been looking here:

https://www.muddywatersoffroad.com/coll ... r-hauler-1

A little further drive, but supposedly no sales tax so might be worth it. It's just the fact of taking the risk of driving that far and it not being what it seems. Also curious why the difference in price, sorta leads me to believe cheaply made like Jonathan said.

For sealing the wood I was thinking about rolling it with Herculiner.

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Steve Vrooman
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Challenger
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Re: RE: Re: Trailer question

Post by Challenger »

TedV wrote:My first thought " 5" channel, what the heck you hauling?? A TANK????" Then I remembered what car you drive. :oops: I think just the weight of your car would bend my trailer before it even saw the first mile of pot holes. [emoji38]

I'll just go back to spectating this thread.. :mrgreen:
[emoji38] [emoji38]

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Steve Vrooman
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thrdeye
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Re: Trailer question

Post by thrdeye »

What are you towing with? I think we are to the point now where we are thinking about a 20 ft enclosed in the next couple of years.
Chris Harp
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Challenger
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Re: RE: Re: Trailer question

Post by Challenger »

thrdeye wrote:What are you towing with? I think we are to the point now where we are thinking about a 20 ft enclosed in the next couple of years.
I've got a 2008 Chevy 2500 diesel.

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Steve Vrooman
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jcoatney
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Re: Trailer question

Post by jcoatney »

I showed that exact add to someone else recently. I don't know how they can build them at that price. The few that I built I had that much in material. There is the NATM (National Association of Trailer Manufacturers) that some manufacturers pay to be in. They have to be built to specific guidelines to meet their criteria and the trailers will have a NATM sticker on it. That doesn't necessarily mean they are better than one without it though. It's really hard to tell what your getting from a picture. These cheap ones are why I quit building them. The vast majority want cheap and don't care about quality. All the hubs and bearings come from China even on the "Made in America" brands so there's not much you can do about that. I would just look over the welds and make sure they don't look like they were done by a 10 year old. Also push down on one of the back corners and make sure it doesn't have a lot of flex. I went to look at a new trailer similar to the ones in this add once and it was so flimsy I ended up buying a used one from the seventies from him because it was so much better.
Jon Coatney
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TedV
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Re: Trailer question

Post by TedV »

ok.. gonna post again.. but wait... waaaaiiiiittt....

The enclosed trailer took the mpg of the 97 sububurban treefiddy from 12mpg at worst to 9mpg no matter what was in the trailer. it's now an awesome extra garage, yes just glorified storage space...

I was about to buy a trailer from Coatney when the trailers he had in stock were stolen. Thieves like quality. So remember to tie that mother F'er DOWN!! with chains and locks n shit. I then repurchased the ping-pong ball trailer that has bounced between VW fucktards for 10-15 years. Rusted, looks like poo. Thieves hate stuff that looks like poo. Did I buy and sell this trailer 2 or 3 times??

My kart trailer I hope to have out this year has a China base to it. If you do buy a china based trailer, take that heifer apart, smooth all the rough edges, weld splatter, etc... clean and re-grease all the bearings, replace any that are funky (trust me, you will know or you are blind) then pray you haven't missed any other thing. Did I mention to remove the weld splatter??

RuVodSkey is something you shouldn't mess with. However, it is hypo allergenic. What is RuVodSkey you ask?? Well ya see, there is this pesky thing about beer, hops, and various yeast strains that seem to invoke some sort of allergic reactions to many peoples. Somehow the subject of rum, vodka, and whiskey came up at work today. Trust me.. don;t mix your drinks... I think this is a Long Tennessee Iced Tea... YMMV I told ya to wwaaaaiiittt... :| :lol:
Ted V.
don't make me list all my VW's
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