concrete recommendations?

Wheelman_13 · Post by **Wheelman_13** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:24 pm

I need some solid (pun intended) recommendations for concrete contractors. I need a garage, and to get there, I need a ~24x28 (give or take) pad on which to set it. There will likely be a foot or two of grading & block needed to get the pad level with the driveway for drainage, but otherwise my needs are pretty straight-forward.

It would be really great if said contractor/company would also handle getting the necessary permits and double check that we aren't pouring a pad on my neighbor's lot.

scottgib · Post by **scottgib** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:44 pm

Two suggestions:

1. If you ever think that there is a possibility that you will install a lift, now is the time to plan a footing that will hold the weight. Disney might offer some advice here.

2. Lot line - If you live in knox county, go to http://www.kgis.org/KnoxNetWhere/viewer.asp (their server is having problems tonight), search on your address, or name, or just draw a box around your section of the county. Zoom until you have your lot. Under layers, uncheck building, check 2010 Photo, and refresh. Lot lines should show. These are not totally accurate, but are normally close. Note you have a measuring tool available on top. If this doesn't work you will need to find a survey or pay for a new one. Your neighbor may have one or know where the corner stakes are located.

Post by **disneyd** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:31 pm

If you want a 2 post lift, you'll need to thicken the area where the posts will be to 6". You'll also want at least 12' ceilings. There are some low profile lifts available though that work better with low ceilings. Google Complete Hydraulic.

Wheelman_13 · Post by **Wheelman_13** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:17 pm

I'm probably going to opt for a mid-rise scissor lift. There are a few models with open centers that would allow me access to pretty much everything I'd need (center coolant pipes/gas tank in the MR2/etc.) and the 48" lift hight is enough to pick either of my cars off of their respective engines if I needed to drop them.

I'm going with a steel structure so overhead clearance won't be an issue. That means I will have to spray-foam or adhesive-mat insulate it, but the difference in cost vs. stick built (even doing it myself) is significant. The problem is, none of the places that sell/build the steel garages also do concrete, so there's no one-stop shop.

I just need someone who can knock out a pad (and not eff it up), and hopefully take care of the paperwork hoops.

Oberstwill · Post by **Oberstwill** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 2:50 pm

Call this guy.....He looks resourceful........

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/v ... T7TRuqVRlt

Wheelman_13 · Post by **Wheelman_13** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 3:05 pm

Oberstwill wrote:Call this guy.....He looks resourceful........

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/v ... T7TRuqVRlt

Yeah, 'looks totally legit.

jcox07 · Post by **jcox07** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:07 pm

I have built a 40x60 concrete garage with insulation. I can take you and show you the one I built or talk to you by phone if you would like to. There is not that much to them as long as you get some one to shoot and spot your bolts for your corner beams. JY

01badz28 · Post by **01badz28** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 5:09 pm

scottgib wrote:2. Lot line - If you live in knox county, go to http://www.kgis.org/KnoxNetWhere/viewer.asp (their server is having problems tonight), search on your address, or name, or just draw a box around your section of the county. Zoom until you have your lot. Under layers, uncheck building, check 2010 Photo, and refresh. Lot lines should show. These are not totally accurate, but are normally close. Note you have a measuring tool available on top. If this doesn't work you will need to find a survey or pay for a new one. Your neighbor may have one or know where the corner stakes are located.

Knox Counties Zoning and building regulations are a complete PITA. I'd get a reputable architect / surveyor to deal with the red tape. It will be cheaper than hiring a souless, blood sucking lawyer when you get your offsets wrong, go four inches over a boundary line, or don't lay the appropriate specification of concrete.

Wheelman_13 · Post by **Wheelman_13** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 5:51 pm

Yeah, That's kinda what I was angling for. There are things that I will do myself and things that I know are best left to those who are used to dealing with the system such as it is. If not for that, i'd probably have already rented a skidsteer.

East Tennessee Region SCCA