Setting Miata Ride Height

[disneyd]

I'm setting the new Miata suspension up and have run into something odd. I'm trying to use Emilio's (at 949 Racing) specs of 4.25"F/4.5"R, as measured from the pinch welds, as a base line. The car ('99 Miata) is still sitting on the 225/45-15 Hankooks and that tire meets the diameter spec that Emilio says will work with these settings (22.7" to 23" rolling diameter)

However, I'm wonder if those specs only apply to NA Miatas.

If I set my car up to those specs, the car is taller than stock and the rear end is jacked up in the air like a 4WD.

On top of that, My rear pinch welds are apparently lower to the ground, in relation to the ride height, than the front. For example, if I set the ride height level by measuring from the wheel lip to the fender arch, the rear pinch welds will be 1/2" lower than the fronts. (No, the car isn't bent in the middle )

So, what I did was to set the fronts as low as I can without having rubbing issues or much contact when I hit bad bumps, then set the rear 1/4" higher using the wheel to fender measuring. This "looks" reasonable on the car to start out with. I don't have my notes on me now, but the pinch weld heights are way lower than anyone else is throwing around; something like 3.75" (the car does not look slammed).

Does anyone have any input?

Thanks

[thrdeye]

You might try to reach out to Darrin DiSimo. He had a really fast STR NB. I bet John could hook you up with his info.

[flier129]

When I installed mine I dropped the car down on all four tires, rolled around the block to settle the suspension, measured the current pinch welds to ground and noted them. Initially I think my front was 5.5" and the rear was 6", but I wanted 4"/4.25"! So, car jacked back up, wheels off I measured 1.5" on the threaded shock on the front, 2.75" on the rear, taped them off then rotated the seat up the shock. Wheels back on, rolled around the block, and remeasured the pinch-welds. The first time we(James and I) were only off by 0.25" in the rear, front was fine at 4". I wasn't sure of the alignment specs it was at when I did that, but I measured the pinch-welds after I got it aligned to my specs and it was still spot on.

NBs should have more tire clearance, better geometry and a tad bigger wheel-wells. The only issue I run into is the tire rubber the outside of the shock tower under full compression, but that only has happened at the dragon, lol.

[disneyd]

What were you measuring on the shocks, and what did you tape?

[MikeKelly]

Not to highjack the thread...

But I'm thinking you're going to want to do some cross weighing in the next couple / three weeks.

Me too.

So, if somebody with the right sort of equipment wanted to host a scale party, I'd supply some ice cold (if somewhat cheap) beer.


Any takers (or counter offers, I've occasionally bought "special request" beer)?

Mike

[Brian]

When I tried to use Emillio's setup, I was down on the rear bump stops almost all the time and rubbing in the front. I measured from the pinch welds. I wound up raising the car close to 0.5" from what he has published on his web site. I can double check the actual heights when I get back in town.

[disneyd]

That would be great Brian. Thanks

[flier129]

What were you measuring on the shocks, and what did you tape?

Measured from where the spring seats currently were to where they needed to be, in my case 1.5" up on the front and 2.75" up on the rear. Also note, I don't have the dual springs, but Emilio sends out taller single springs so it's the same length as the standard & tender springs together.

If your pinch-welds read 4.25"F/4.5"R, I'm confused on why the car would sit higher than stock.

He's write-ups are more than likely based around a NB since he deals with them more than NAs. Don't know that for sure though.

Have you talked to Emilio yet?

[disneyd]

Haven't had a chance to call Emilio yet. I'm going to try to do that tomorrow.

Chris, do you have any contact info for DiSimo?

Right now, measuring from the pinch welds I have 3 5/8"F and 3 3/8"R. The rear is actually too low for my chassis gauge to read.

However, the car doesn't look too low to me. Look at the pics I'm about to post and image if I raised the car 5/8" in the front and 1 1/8" in the rear. The front might be ok, but I'd lose a lot of camber. The rear would be crazy.

I'm wondering if my rear pinch welds are different than most other cars or something.

Right now, measuring from the wheel lip to the fender arch, the rear is 1/4" higher than the front. Of course, that's assuming the fender arches are perfectly symmetrical, which is most likely not the case.

[disneyd]

[GaryM]

However, the car doesn't look too low to me.

Looks slammed to me! How does it feel driving? If you're not hitting the bump stops or fenders with the tires than why not?

[oldmuscle69]

Well Dave since I am just getting to put MY miata on the ground I SURE hope YOU CAN stand up and feel like you sold me a correct setup for my car.There a few that have had ? about this ? on my car.

[disneyd]

Well Bob, this is the first I've heard of any problem. I'm interested to know what the issue is. If you'd like, I'll buy the setup back right now, assuming they're in the same condition as when I sold them. Just PM me and let me know.

How's that for standing up?

[thrdeye]

Bob what are you trying to say? Seriously. Are you trying to insinuate that Dave would try to rip you off or something?

If that's NOT what you mean then you really need to edit that post to clarify because that's really what it sounds like.

Dave sold you parts. That doesn't mean you're not going to have to tinker with the configuration of those parts to get a proper setup

sent from typotalk

[Brian]

That's definitely lower than where I was able to run. The Altobelli's were able to go lower than me so there could be some significant variation even amongst '99's. I could make the front end rub in any empty lot but I really couldn't tell the rear was too low until I got to an autox where the car became a handful.