Rust in iron engine block.
Rust in iron engine block.
So my 1994 F150 has some rust in the engine block. The truck is high mileage so it's not something I would consider unexpected, however, when I sit in traffic with the A/C on max the truck starts to get pretty hot. It doesn't overheat but the gauge does climb to about 215-220*, which is hotter than I want to see. I have done a coolant flush with some store brand flush, run the car for 2 days, flushed again, refilled with distilled water and coolant. Went to look at my overflow tank and more rust deposits have found their way in. I have been doing some research and there are all sorts of options, most all use a light acid (vinegar, woodbleach acid, CLR, hell even Coca Cola) and neutralizer with a refill of distilled and coolant. I am about to buy a new radiator for the truck in prep to get it tow ready, so some anecdotal advice or practical experience is what I am looking for as far as rust removal goes. I think the only way to get it 100% out is to do an electrical chemical flush on the block, but this 300 straight 6 isn't going to get that treatment. So whatever I can do to keep the radiator for getting clogged is about the best it is going to see. Radiators are less than $100 for this truck, but I would like to buy one and be done if possible.
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
No idea. But! Sweet mirrors.
Chris Harp
2009 Mazda RX-8 | 2018 Toyota Tundra | 2011 BMW M3
2009 Mazda RX-8 | 2018 Toyota Tundra | 2011 BMW M3
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Can't tell if you are being sarcastic but, I got them off a 76 F250 out in a field. Took them home and cleaned them up really nice, bronzed the hardware and replaced other pieces. I think I may want to tone down the stainless look a bit and paint the mirror housings matte black like my grill, bumper, and windshield trim.thrdeye wrote:No idea. But! Sweet mirrors.
I did have to make a small patch plate to cover the stock mirror holes. Those factory mirrors sucked. I really dig these overall.
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
no, i was serious. don't see those often.
Chris Harp
2009 Mazda RX-8 | 2018 Toyota Tundra | 2011 BMW M3
2009 Mazda RX-8 | 2018 Toyota Tundra | 2011 BMW M3
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
We always referred to those as west coast or kalifornia mirrors (not a trademark).
I've got no help on the rust - sorry.
I've got no help on the rust - sorry.
Mike Kelly
"Still got the shovel..."
--Mr. Rate
"Still got the shovel..."
--Mr. Rate
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Cool, thanks, did a lot of research to find what I wanted with these.thrdeye wrote:no, i was serious. don't see those often.
Jr. West Coast is how they are often referred when I was looking. Seems Kalifornia mirrors are a thing as well. The vertical viewing is pretty awesome but they really need some convex mirrors on the bottom for extra side viewing. I am trying to find something in a 4 possibly 5" circumference that will look like they were OEMish.MikeKelly wrote:We always referred to those as west coast or kalifornia mirrors (not a trademark).
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Look at spot mirrors on small box vans. Millsupply or Amazon online or the local truckstop should have auxiliary clamp on spot mirrors
Ted V.
don't make me list all my VW's
don't make me list all my VW's
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
The best rust and vw heater core cleaner. Is Mercedes-Benz citric acid cooling system flush. 2-3 tablespoons with straight water mix. Run 15 min. Then flush, flush , flush.... it works
Mike T
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
I think flushing through with a hose is the quickest/easiest way, even if you have to separate the system into separate parts to do it. I would think you could rig a water hose into the radiator return line and let it come out the inlet line and just let it run for a while. Maybe run the hose into a heater line and out at the radiator too? We use CLR with a couple tabs of alka-seltzer for clogged heater cores at work, as an alternative to pulling the dash.
Lucas Coleman STM #72
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
I've read that it was Muriatic Acid in the Merc stuff. Does citric acid really work?2slow wrote:The best rust and vw heater core cleaner. Is Mercedes-Benz citric acid cooling system flush. 2-3 tablespoons with straight water mix. Run 15 min. Then flush, flush , flush.... it works
I will probably do something like this with some higher pressure. There are some plumbing fittings that others have used to make it work. I may try the CLR just to get it out of my heater core. I really don't want that to be clogged. The radiator, although annoying, isn't near the PITA that the heatercore is.lcoleman wrote:I think flushing through with a hose is the quickest/easiest way, even if you have to separate the system into separate parts to do it. I would think you could rig a water hose into the radiator return line and let it come out the inlet line and just let it run for a while. Maybe run the hose into a heater line and out at the radiator too? We use CLR with a couple tabs of alka-seltzer for clogged heater cores at work, as an alternative to pulling the dash.
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Just remember your residential water hose is probably running at 60 psi and the cooling system was designed for around 20 with some room for error. Be sure you have enough water coming out somewhere to keep the pressure down.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Dave Disney
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Maybe that is true, maybe not.90civichb wrote:
The radiator, although annoying, isn't near the PITA that the heatercore is.
I put off changing the heater core in a 1989 F250 for years because I thought it was going to be a major PITA.
When it couldn't be put off any more, turns out it was relatively painless - it changed out very easily through the glovebox - i.e. remove glovebox, remove one (heater core size) plastic cover behind glovebox, replace heater core, reassemble.
Same thing in a 1990 full size Bronco a few years later.
I do not know if Ford continued that assembly method through 1994??? (but I suspect maybe so)
Both trucks were also equipped with AC.
Those heater cores had a baffle in them that tended to collapse and allow the hot water straight in + back out without going through the coil part (no heat after the baffle fails).
Mike Kelly
"Still got the shovel..."
--Mr. Rate
"Still got the shovel..."
--Mr. Rate
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Thanks, didn't even question the thought the pressure might be TOO high.disneyd wrote:Just remember your residential water hose is probably running at 60 psi and the cooling system was designed for around 20 with some room for error. Be sure you have enough water coming out somewhere to keep the pressure down.
You are probably right. I have never had an "easy" heater core install, so it was mostly based on assumption. This thing is almost identical to the Bronco.MikeKelly wrote: Maybe that is true, maybe not......
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
I'm pretty sure those were the only two "easy" heater core changes I ever had.90civichb wrote:
I have never had an "easy" heater core install, so it was mostly based on assumption.
Makes it easy to remember what was put together with any thought toward future serviceability (you don't often see that)...
Mike Kelly
"Still got the shovel..."
--Mr. Rate
"Still got the shovel..."
--Mr. Rate
Re: Rust in iron engine block.
Same procedure for a '96.MikeKelly wrote:Maybe that is true, maybe not.90civichb wrote:
The radiator, although annoying, isn't near the PITA that the heatercore is.
I put off changing the heater core in a 1989 F250 for years because I thought it was going to be a major PITA.
When it couldn't be put off any more, turns out it was relatively painless - it changed out very easily through the glovebox - i.e. remove glovebox, remove one (heater core size) plastic cover behind glovebox, replace heater core, reassemble.
Same thing in a 1990 full size Bronco a few years later.
I do not know if Ford continued that assembly method through 1994??? (but I suspect maybe so)
Both trucks were also equipped with AC.
Those heater cores had a baffle in them that tended to collapse and allow the hot water straight in + back out without going through the coil part (no heat after the baffle fails).
'16 FRS - PSTX 97