Make the Ticking Stop!

01badz28 · Post by **01badz28** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:44 pm

This is probably a lost cause because every NA Miata I've ever heard has done this, but is there a permanent fix to the g**d**n lifter ticking short of a rebuild? I've experimented with different motor oils and 10W-40 seems to work better, although it still ticks at startup. Any suggestions?

Pewter Sonoma · Post by **Pewter Sonoma** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:50 pm

75W-90 gear lube!

Tyler H · Post by **Tyler H** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:46 pm

I'm no Miata expert, but topend ticking on most Japanese DOHC 16v engines can be fixed by reshimming the lifter buckets.

Fastech · Post by **Fastech** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:33 pm

A friend with a Miata used to swear by that Lucas oill additive... YMMV.

Post by **thrdeye** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:47 pm

The lifters simply are telling you it's time for an oil change. That's what I've found with ours, at least.

TedV · Post by **TedV** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:23 pm

make sure you have the radio volume knob set to 11.

lcoleman · Post by **lcoleman** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:48 pm

http://www.miata.net/garage/hla/cleaning.html

The end-all, be-all alternative is a '99-'00 head swap, which has solid lifters.

You might consider heavier oil, too. The 5W-30 recommendation is pretty highly debated among enthusiasts...I was running 15W-40 in mine.

01badz28 · Post by **01badz28** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:35 pm

lcoleman wrote:http://www.miata.net/garage/hla/cleaning.html

The end-all, be-all alternative is a '99-'00 head swap, which has solid lifters.

You might consider heavier oil, too. The 5W-30 recommendation is pretty highly debated among enthusiasts...I was running 15W-40 in mine.

10W-40 seems to take care of it, I've never run 5W-30. I may give the 15W-40 a shot next oil change.

Scuffcakes · Post by **Scuffcakes** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 1:35 am

OK. Here's the fix and then a warning. Next time you change your oil (if they're ticking, it's time) get about 1/2 pint of kerosene. Pour that in your oil and run the engine for about 10 minutes. Then drain and change the oil like normal. This will clean the gunk out of the oil passages and allow greater oil pressure in the head.
WARNING
This can also get rid of gunk deposits that are holding back leaks so be forewarned.

I've also found that in the winter, this can happen because the oil is too thick to get up there easily. I run 0w40 Mobil1 in the winter and it stops it.

Pewter Sonoma · Post by **Pewter Sonoma** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 7:53 am

I always pour in some SeaFoam in the oil before an oil change - similiar to what Guffy just mentioned. I've been doing this in all my vehicles for about 5-6 years now...however I do it even with no internal issues - I'm just trying to keep everything nice and clean. so far, I would say it works b/c the oil looks a lot dirtier when I change it vs. when I added the seafoam a few hundred miles before that. I've also heard about potential leaks, so use with caution if you feel like gunked up oil is actually HELPING prevent leaks at the moment.

If you have a high mileage car (especially one with an egr valve), pour a can through the brake booster line and watch the smoke show! I was AMAZED the first time I did this on the blazer w/ over 200K miles on it.

MARKP · Post by **MARKP** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:05 am

If you use Amsoil in it, it will do the same thing the kerosene trick does. Synthetic oils are much cleaner and don't gunk things up. It can also cause your seals to leak for the same reasons.

Pewter Sonoma · Post by **Pewter Sonoma** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:24 am

yeah, I switched to synethics around 05, and AMSOIL 06/07 (was using Mobil 1)....now I'm just in the habbit of still adding in the SeaFoam even though I probably don't need to. I still put it in the gas and brake booster every 4-6 months though.

Susan's car has 180K on it, so we just put dino in it.

steverife · Post by **steverife** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:27 am

MARKP wrote:If you use Amsoil in it, it will do the same thing the kerosene trick does.

That isn't what my kerosene salesman told me.

SilverMaxima · Post by **SilverMaxima** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:38 am

Pewter Sonoma wrote:I always pour in some SeaFoam in the oil before an oil change - similiar to what Guffy just mentioned. I've been doing this in all my vehicles for about 5-6 years now...however I do it even with no internal issues - I'm just trying to keep everything nice and clean. so far, I would say it works b/c the oil looks a lot dirtier when I change it vs. when I added the seafoam a few hundred miles before that. I've also heard about potential leaks, so use with caution if you feel like gunked up oil is actually HELPING prevent leaks at the moment.

If you have a high mileage car (especially one with an egr valve), pour a can through the brake booster line and watch the smoke show! I was AMAZED the first time I did this on the blazer w/ over 200K miles on it.

I used Seafoam for the first time a few months ago... My backyard was covered in smoke (I've got a vid; want to see?)!

By the way, this stuff is cheapest at Wal-Mart: $6.XX/can. I dumped a can in the gas and 1/2 can in the brake booster. I'll probably put the remainig 1/2 in the oil and 1/2 in the brake booster again right before my next oil change (2k miles). Sadly enough, my rear main seal is leaking oh so slightly.

MARKP · Post by **MARKP** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:58 am

steverife wrote:
MARKP wrote:If you use Amsoil in it, it will do the same thing the kerosene trick does.
That isn't what my kerosene salesman told me.

Then you should keep using kerosene. If I were you, I would just use kerosene instead of oil.