For those who were wondering......

[Williampreza]

Okay, I know that all the SMers breathed a collective sigh of relief when I removed the eminently competitive WRX wagon from autocross use. But, fear not, I will return next year, hopefully...

(Deep breath...) I' ve bought the book, two 1st generation RX7's as donors (12a motors, not running yet), and I have a good lead on a source for steel, all contributing to the construction of a Locost 7 (ideally by next race season). SUPRISE!

Am I copying Dave Disney? Well, uh, yeah. Am I biting off more than I can chew? Maybe. Do I need as much advice as I can possibly gather? Heck Yes!
So, bring it on. I need as much advice, tips, kibitzing, financial contributions, free mechanic work, etc. as possible from any qualified (and I use the term somewhat loosely) person.

That is all, thanks

PS: Cheers and encouragement welcome.

[MARKP]

Wow, that's quite an undertaking. Hope it all goes well and we see you in the spring. I've always thought Dave and Dave needed some competition.

[Williampreza]

...I've always thought Dave and Dave needed some competition.

Hehe, I don't know if I can match the hp levels of the 13b with my little 12a, but I can try! I have to get them running first. I pretty sure one just needs a new solenoid. The other is supposedly still running, but somebody jacked the distributor, and the key, while it was sitting in a cow pasture waiting for me.

[thrdeye]

Damn, is it really only gonne cost you 250 in British Sterling?

[mrsoul55]

So, bring it on. I need as much advice, tips, kibitzing, financial contributions, free mechanic work, etc. as possible from any qualified (and I use the term somewhat loosely) person.

I am hardly qualified as a mechanic (I can change my own tires!) but I'd be willing to help out in any way I can. In other words, you show and tell me what to do and I'll help out. I've always wanted to learn but am dumb with the hands on. Of course I'd want to drive it at least one once but that's all I ask.

[Williampreza]

Damn, is it really only gonne cost you 250 in British Sterling?

Well, right now I weigh in at 150, so I'll need at least somebody's girlfriend.

[Williampreza]

So, bring it on. I need as much advice, tips, kibitzing, financial contributions, free mechanic work, etc. as possible from any qualified (and I use the term somewhat loosely) person.

I am hardly qualified as a mechanic (I can change my own tires!) but I'd be willing to help out in any way I can. In other words, you show and tell me what to do and I'll help out. I've always wanted to learn but am dumb with the hands on. Of course I'd want to drive it at least one once but that's all I ask.

I'll get in touch with you as soon as I get one of these cars running. I don't think I'll start calling in help just yet. These cars stink (no, literally, they smell really bad), so i don't want to lose volunteers (and friends) yet.

[tscott]

I think the first thing you need to do is resize that crazy avatar. Oh and get in touch with Lee Grasier. He has a plethora of 1st gen RX-7 parts.

[disneyd]

Yeah, I second the vote for a smaller avatar.

The Champion book is more of an inspirational text than it is a step-by-step manual.

The first thing I'd do is buy this book:

Amazon Link

Read it many times.... otherwise you'll end up with a car that rolls and steers, but doesn't handle worth a flip.

Also, several of the diagrams in the Champion book are not accurate. If you go by it alone, you'll end up re-doing several parts when the originals don't fit. The site below has pdf drawings and cut lists that are accurate for the book frame and for plus frames (wider and/or longer).

Mcsorley Site

Be sure you know how to weld properly.... take a class somewhere. Good looking welds can be weak and vise versa, know the difference. Also be sure you build your frame on a rigid, flat surface so that you can be sure it doesn't warp. Also, spot weld all the joints on each side (four spots per square tube) and do the final welds after you have the whole frame done, doing opposite sides and taking your time. Otherwise, you'll end up with a warped frame.

Use heim joints for the suspension pivot points, the tube type bushings aren't any good for competition.

You've got a LOT of work in store if you want to have one done in time for next season. Better get started yesterday.

I'm looking forward to the competition!

BTW, a 12A powered 1st gen Rx-7 is an ideal donor car.

[disneyd]

Oh, I forgot to mention that I'm thinking about selling mine and building a 300 hp turbo Miata for SM2... I'm just kicking the idea around, but if anyone is interested: http://locost.voodoobox.net

[disneyd]

Oh, speaking of steel, I get all mine from SSS steel in East Knoxville. At the time I was building mine, the steel (mostly 1" square tube) for the whole frame was about $75. I do know steel prices have gone up, but I don't know how much. I would recommend using new steel.

What steering rack are you planning on using? (The 1st gen Rx-7 steering parts can't be used).

[Williampreza]

Fixed it! Sorry 'bout that, I just snarfed a link to a pic on the cmc page. Thought it was smaller.

Dave,

Thanks for the links. I found the Mcsorley site a few days ago. I'll order the susp/brakes book right away. I have a few books about handling (how to make your car handle, high performance handling, etc.), but not one that specific. I've got a good bit of welding experience, BUT I'm signed up for a welding class starting... tomorrow!

Here are some examples of what I've done before. That's Auburn University's 2001 Great Moonbuggy Race entry. It pivots in the middle, awd, lsd both ends, steers like a log skidder.

[MARKP]

I do know steel prices have gone up, but I don't know how much.

If electric conduit is any indication (probably a good one) it has gone up many times that amount.

[Williampreza]

Oh, speaking of steel, I get all mine from SSS steel in East Knoxville. At the time I was building mine, the steel (mostly 1" square tube) for the whole frame was about $75. I do know steel prices have gone up, but I don't know how much. I would recommend using new steel.

What steering rack are you planning on using? (The 1st gen Rx-7 steering parts can't be used).

I have a friend who knows the owner of Alloy Fabrication in Clinton. They may be able to supply the steel, but I'm not sure yet. did you do your own bodywork? That's the part I'm most worried about. I've never been terribly artsy. So, although I'm confident that I can make it work, I don't know how well I can do at making the car look nice (see Moonbuggy pics). I'm looking at using the Tercel front rack (a la the CMC Faq), but I'd like opinions before I go a-scrounging.

[disneyd]

Steve is bad about keeping the CMC site updated. That FAQ is about 4 years old. I don't know much about the Tercel rack, but I think it doesn't have a very good ratio. Many cars (including mine) use a early to mid 80's VW rack, mine is from a Jetta. You can also take a Miata rack and shorten it. However, if you're going to use the Rx-7 steering arms, you need to stick with a rear steer rack (Miata rack is front steer) or make new steering arms, or use Miata front uprights, which would give you different bolt patterns, but the rear axles can be redrilled easily, which you give you a much wider choice in wheels (the 12A cars used a fairly unique bolt pattern), which would...... well, the possibilities are endless.

I would do the aluminum paneling yourself, its easy. I would buy the fiberglass parts from CMC. In my opinion, its not worth the monetary savings to try to do the fiberglass yourself.