STI Alignment

72RatCamaro · Post by **72RatCamaro** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:19 pm

I am getting the Forester setup for the season and I am trying to figure out what the best bet for an alignment would be. My options are ~1.5-1.8 negative camber and ~7degrees of caster or 3deg of camber and about 5.5 caster. Which would be my best bet for the front of the car? I can't add more camber without sacrificing caster.

Buck05Sti · Post by **Buck05Sti** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:27 pm

Get in touch with Chris Harp, he'd be your best bet on this. But dont forget about the back of the car. if youre stock back there be sure to add some toe out to help turn-in.

Gen52SS · Post by **Gen52SS** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:49 pm

72RatCamaro wrote:I am getting the Forester setup for the season and I am trying to figure out what the best bet for an alignment would be. My options are ~1.5-1.8 negative camber and ~7degrees of caster or 3deg of camber and about 5.5 caster. Which would be my best bet for the front of the car? I can't add more camber without sacrificing caster.

Andrew. ...you have any connections at Walker Automotive?

....they did my alignment by my specs which I got from other camaro solo drivers. I have set front to 1.8 negative camber 0 degree toe caster no change. The rear is half degree negative camber 0 toe. Any more than 2 degrees negative camber on the front and using it for daily driver is pushing it on my car your Forester may be different.

.. I would think 3 degrees camber is a bit much

jcox07 · Post by **jcox07** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:54 pm

I'm running 3.6 degree of negative camber on the front of the GT500.

Gen52SS · Post by **Gen52SS** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:11 pm

Jeff ...I didn't know you used it every day as your daily ride I thought you were trailering most of the time. I would need to change suspension parts to dial in that much camber then couldn't run Street. I forgot Andrew has 2 Foresters older and new?

jcox07 · Post by **jcox07** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:13 pm

No its a garage queen and not a DD and it does get trailered almost to all the events we go to.

dewittpayne · Post by **dewittpayne** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:44 pm

Andrew,

What is the suspension design? If it's strut and you've lowered it to the point where the lower control arm is parallel to the ground, you probably need as much static camber as you can get because the camber is going positive on the outside wheel under roll. Decreasing caster decreases the negative camber gain when the wheel is turned, but it's probably a wash if the static negative camber has already been increased. What you really need is a figure 8 course and a tire pyrometer. I'm not convinced a circular skid pad is all that relevant to autocross.

I drove my car on the street with -1.8 degrees camber on the front. After 30,000 miles on the tires, you could see the inner edge was wearing faster, but not by all that much.

Post by **thrdeye** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:07 pm

As much negative camber as you can get in the front... -3 is fine. Don't worry about caster really. If you have camber plates you can set a street alignment, jack up the car and max them out before the event. This should add toe out in the front when you push the plates in.

Maybe around -1.2 to -1.5 in the rear since you have the STi diffs. (Right?). If no fancy diffs, the more like -0.8

And yes some toe out in the rear will help rotation...but change it up before events and back to zero for street driving. I ran 1/2 in toe out in my white car and it rocked.

72RatCamaro · Post by **72RatCamaro** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:42 am

Gen52SS wrote: Andrew. ...you have any connections at Walker Automotive? ....they did my alignment by my specs which I got from other camaro solo drivers. I have set front to 1.8 negative camber 0 degree toe caster no change. The rear is half degree negative camber 0 toe. Any more than 2 degrees negative camber on the front and using it for daily driver is pushing it on my car your Forester may be different.

.. I would think 3 degrees camber is a bit much

Yeah, like I have said in the past, I have access to an alignment machine that I can use everyday if wanted. I am running coilovers with camber plates front and rear so its super simple for me to lay the front in for the weekend and bring it back up Monday.

Also glad we were able to get you all lined up.

The car is MY only car but my wife and I carpool if needed, plus the shop is only 10 miles from my house so to say I don't drive a lot of boring miles is accurate.

thrdeye wrote:As much negative camber as you can get in the front... -3 is fine. Don't worry about caster really. If you have camber plates you can set a street alignment, jack up the car and max them out before the event. This should add toe out in the front when you push the plates in.

Maybe around -1.2 to -1.5 in the rear since you have the STi diffs. (Right?). If no fancy diffs, the more like -0.8

And yes some toe out in the rear will help rotation...but change it up before events and back to zero for street driving. I ran 1/2 in toe out in my white car and it rocked.

Ok that's what I will do then. -3 front -1.5 rear (running R180 STI rear diff with STI Lateral links). I have rear camber plates as well so super easy to get that camber. The toe is a different story. Currently the car oversteers. ALOT. Both exiting turns and under hard braking, to the point it is hard to drive. The fact that I am about to add even more power will make it power oversteer even worse. So I am trying to do all I can to reign that in.

Post by **thrdeye** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:51 am

Then maybe don't worry about toe out. Sounds like I need to give that thing a try sometime.

dewittpayne · Post by **dewittpayne** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:09 pm

Andrew,

You might want to run some static toe in on the rear if it's oversteering. Your suspension bushings may have enough flex that you get toe out under braking from a static rear toe of zero.

Post by **thrdeye** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:11 pm

Well, loose it relative. And with that driveline, I'm tempted to bet that it's not as loose as he thinks it is.

72RatCamaro · Post by **72RatCamaro** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:08 pm

Yeah, it's not oversteering to the point I think it will spin. But for a Subaru it oversteers more than I have felt any other Subaru do. Hopefully the good alignment, new tires, a little more low, and seat time will help me reign it in. The two events I did in the car last year as well as dragon runs are really hard to gauge performance but compared to the silver car it is completely different. Even though they are both "similar" setups (coilover, big sway bars, similar alignment) the silver car had a ton of understeer still whereas this one just doesn't. Instead of pushing it turns in and back rotates.

Chris I will let you give it a whirl one day for sure. Its a blast.

Buck05Sti · Post by **Buck05Sti** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:05 pm

72RatCamaro wrote:Yeah, it's not oversteering to the point I think it will spin. But for a Subaru it oversteers more than I have felt any other Subaru do. Hopefully the good alignment, new tires, a little more low, and seat time will help me reign it in. The two events I did in the car last year as well as dragon runs are really hard to gauge performance but compared to the silver car it is completely different. Even though they are both "similar" setups (coilover, big sway bars, similar alignment) the silver car had a ton of understeer still whereas this one just doesn't. Instead of pushing it turns in and back rotates.

Chris I will let you give it a whirl one day for sure. Its a blast.

Gota spin it to win it!

72RatCamaro · Post by **72RatCamaro** » Fri Feb 13, 2015 11:51 am

It almost spun at Chilhowee, but instead it just wiped out all the cones in the bottom.

East Tennessee Region SCCA

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