Solo2 work to do...

[marknoakes]

Well after the first event, I can see I have a lot of work to do on the driver and the car since I was close to the bottom. I'm sure this was mostly driver issues but the car was skating around seriously as well.

I've managed to connect to the old BSPVette email list gang now living on the Corvette forum...some of them used to run the Dogwood...but almost none of them run BSP any more. They provided a list of suggestions, some of which are quite expensive.

Question = can I run a camber bar on the front suspension in street prepared? It's a support that goes between the upper A arms. The gang says it's legal; I thought it wasn't but don't remember where I heard that...??? Comments?

I will definitely be going to 315R35-17 Hoosiers all around. The problem will be finding a decent set of 17 by 11 inch wheels with the right back space. If/when I find them, the tires will clear with no mods to body or suspension.

The rest of the list includes a wide range of suspension mods including:

double action shocks--Koni or Penske
swap out to 1984 Z51 suspension as much as possible and/or Vette Brakes and Products and/or Banski Motorsports
offset bushings
larger front and rear sway bars
larger rotors and hawk pads
cut as much weight as possible

and I'll also need a hitch and trailer to move the wheels/tires.

My concern is that I don't want to burn money on parts that are not BSP legal.

And it would help if the car wouldn't leak. The leak I fixed held; this was a new one that prevented my last run Sunday.

The BSP group also challenged the notion that I couldn't move to CAM; where is it in print? I didn't see much on CAM in the rule book...obviously I'm not looking in the right place.

Comments appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

[dewittpayne]

2015 Solo II rules, Appendix B-Classic American Muscle (CAM), page 230

Excluded: Chevrolet Corvette (1984-2015), Dodge/SRT Viper (all)

[marknoakes]

Good enough, thanks. BSP, it is then.

[dewittpayne]

Strut Bar
A transverse member connecting the upper or lower suspension mounting points at the front or rear of the car. Strut bars may be mounted only transversely across the car from upper left to upper right suspension mounting point and from lower left to lower right suspension mounting point. A two-point strut bar fastens only at the left and right suspension pointing points. A triangulated strut bar has a third area of attachment at the chassis (e.g., at the firewall/bulkhead). All connections to the vehicle must be bolted. No connection point to the chassis can be welded.

Strut Bars are allowed in Street Prepared. I'm assuming that what you call a camber bar is actually a strut bar.

Shocks are free, more or less.
Sway bars are free.
rotors are free as long as they are the same or larger diameter and thickness and are iron.
You can't gut the interior of the car to lose weight, but you can replace some parts with lighter parts.

The Street Prepared prep rules start on page 90. There's a link to the current rules in the 2013 rule book thread at the top of the page.

This is my interpretation of the rules in question, but I'm reasonably confident I'm correct.

[oldmuscle69]

So DeWitt you said shocks are free.Where do we get them??????

[dewittpayne]

The same place you get the free sway bars.

[jcox07]

If you are going with bigger rotors you may also have to go with 18 inch wheels to clear your brakes as well. JY

[marknoakes]

What brand wheels do people usually go with? I have some AFS Grand Sport style 11 inch wheels, but I expect they are heavier than the OEM wheels. The OEM wheels have the wrong back space so I don't want to just use them. Go with my AFS wheels or try to find some racing wheels?

[MARKP]

A lot of the really serious people go with CCW. StranoParts has Forgestar wheels that are less expensive that may fit your car as well.

[marknoakes]

Good info; I'll keep it in mind for future seasons. Since the 315R35-17 Hoosiers are $360 a piece, I may stick with the AFS wheels for now even though they are heavier. Thanks.

[ConeEater]

And the 17s are hard to find as scrubs too

[PushinTheLimit]

I wouldn't think you would want to go to bigger rotors, that's just more rotational mass to lug around that you don't have to... especially for autox. If you need better stopping power, just get the Hawk DTC70's and that will do the trick.

It's probably much harder to find 315's for 17" wheels now that most road racers have upgraded to 18" wheels now. But you might get lucky and still find a few on them over on CF. Also, unless you really know how to set up double adjustable shocks... you can get yourself way out in left field pretty quickly. I used some Bilstein's my first full year in autox and they worked just fine for much less cost. I wouldn't go with Penske's unless I was really seriously going to run a lot of National events. JMO FWIW